Nature and day trips · Walk · checked on 04/11/2026
Vilafranca del Penedès

Vilafranca and the Penedès, a travel notebook

Fifty km from Barcelona lies the wine-growing plain where cava was born. A market town of castells, with cellars dug beneath its streets. A day trip by train, with a detour by car if you can manage it.

  • 8stops
  • 2towns
  • ≈3 kmon foot
  • 6–8 hrwith visits
  • 50 kmfrom Barcelona
From grape to bubble · the traditional method
  1. 1
    Harvest and base wine Late August to early October

    Grapes are picked early to keep their acidity. The classic Penedès varieties are Macabeu, Xarel·lo and Parellada. A gentle pressing yields a dry, low-alcohol white wine: the base wine.

  2. 2
    Blending and bottling Winter

    The cellar blends several base wines, then bottles them with a little sugar and yeast: this is the tirage. The bottle is sealed with a crown cap.

  3. 3
    Second fermentation A few weeks

    In the bottle, the yeasts turn the sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The gas cannot escape, so it dissolves into the wine. This is the traditional method, the same as in Champagne or for crémants.

  4. 4
    Ageing on the lees At least 9 months for cava, 18 for Corpinnat

    The bottles age lying down in the cellars, in contact with the dead yeasts, which give the wine its aromas of bread and brioche. The longer the ageing, the finer the bubble.

  5. 5
    Riddling and disgorging A few days

    The bottles are gradually tilted neck-down to bring the sediment against the cap. The neck is frozen and opened: the pressure expels the plug of frozen sediment. This is disgorging.

  6. 6
    Dosage and corking The day of disgorging

    The bottle is topped up with the dosage liqueur, sweeter or drier: brut nature with nothing added, brut, sec, semi-sec. Then cork, wire cage and label. The cava is ready.

Status as of 04/11/2026
The R4 line remains unreliable.

The Sant Sadurní–Martorell section reopened on 7 April 2026, after more than two months’ closure. This followed the fatal accident at Gelida on 20 January; trains still run there at reduced speed. On 4 November, a freight-train breakdown between Martorell and Sant Sadurní again caused delays of over 30 min. Check the Rodalies app that morning and allow plenty of time.

The harvest is over; the cellars are at work.

November is a quiet season in the vineyards, not in the cellars: visits and tastings run as normal, by reservation.

Fira del Gall in Vilafranca: the Penedès capon fair, on the weekend before Christmas, over 360 editions.
19–20 Dec.
End of the free exhibition “Vilafranca 1926” at the Vinseum, in the chapel of Sant Pelegrí.
14 Feb.
Member cellars of Corpinnat, the collective brand that left the Cava appellation in 2018. Juvé & Camps joined in March 2026.
22
All Saints’ Day diada castellera, now past. The next big diada in Vilafranca: the Festa Major, late August.
1 Nov.

The route

Morning in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, capital of cava; afternoon in Vilafranca, capital of the Penedès, 10 min away by train. Optionally, a cellar in the vineyards north of Vilafranca, by car or taxi. Schematic map, north at the top, drawn from OpenStreetMap coordinates; the railway line is simplified.

R4Gare de Sant SadurníGare de Vilafranca01020803–07 Centre5 kmN ↑

Which day to go

Opening hours checked on 4 November 2026 on the websites of the cellars, the Vinseum and the Vilafranca tourist office.

DayFreixenet, CodorníuVinseumMarketFamília Torres
Monday✓ by booking✗✗✗
Tuesday✓ by booking✓ 10:00–19:00✗✗
Wednesday✓ by booking✓ 10:00–19:00✗✗
Thursday✓ by booking✓ 10:00–19:00✗✗
Friday✓ by booking✓ 10:00–19:00✗✗
Saturday✓ by booking✓ 10:00–19:00✓ 8:00–14:00✓ by booking
Sunday✓ by booking✓ 10:00–14:00 · free on the 1st✗✓ by booking

The guide’s view: go on a Saturday. It is the only day when everything is open: the big market in the morning, the Vinseum until 19:00, and Família Torres. Avoid Monday, when the Vinseum is closed. On Sunday the Vinseum closes at 14:00.

The simplest way

Getting there

The Penedès stretches between the Garraf massif and the Pre-Coastal Range, 40–55 km west of Barcelona. The train serves both towns on the route; a car opens up the isolated cellars among the vines.

By train, line R4

Departure
Barcelona-Sants or Plaça de Catalunya, towards Sant Vicenç de Calders
Journey
Sant Sadurní then Vilafranca, a few tens of minutes; check the exact time on the timetable
Frequency
Several trains an hour on weekdays, fewer at weekends
Ticket
Zone ticket from the machine; check the fare displayed

Buy a Barcelona–Vilafranca return and stop off at Sant Sadurní: the R4 serves both stations, a few minutes apart.

The guide’s view

The R4 logged 47 incidents in 30 days, according to El tren no funca’s tracker. Allow an hour’s margin before any booked visit and note the time of the last train back.

By car

For the vineyard cellars

Route
AP-7 or A-2 then C-15, depending on your starting point, ≈ 50 km, 45 min from central Barcelona
Parking
Car parks on the edge of the centre in Vilafranca; on Saturday mornings the centre is taken over by the market
Alcohol
Legal limit 0.5 g/l (0.25 mg/l of exhaled air), with frequent checks

A car lets you add Família Torres and the country cellars, but one person does not taste.

The guide’s view

The best arrangement: train to Vilafranca, then a local taxi to the isolated cellar. Nobody drives after the tasting.

The stops

In the order of the day: Sant Sadurní in the morning, Vilafranca in the afternoon, Torres as an option. Tick “Seen” as you go: the page remembers it on this phone.

01
Must-see€22.50By booking

Freixenet and the Cava Centre

Address
Carrer de Joan Sala, 2, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, next to the station
Practical
Daily, by booking (visita@freixenet.com, +34 938 917 096). Combined visit €22.50, ages 9–17 €20, under 9 free
Time on site
≈ 1 hr 30 for Freixenet, 1 hr 20 for the Cava Centre

Sant Sadurní d’Anoia calls itself the capital of cava: the small town lives off the cellars dug beneath its streets. Freixenet, one of the largest sparkling-wine houses in the world, stands opposite the station, and its warehouses line the railway.

The combined visit adds the Cava Centre, in a former spirits distillery of 1814, which tells the story of cava on the scale of the town. The cellar tour ends with a tasting of two cavas.

What to look for

  • The riddling racks, where bottles were turned by hand to bring the sediment down towards the neck.
  • The underground galleries, at a constant temperature all year round.

The guide’s view

Book by email several days ahead and ask for a slot in English if there is one: languages depend on availability.

OpenStreetMapGoogle Maps41.42130, 1.79350

On foot through the centre of Sant Sadurní: ≈ 1.6 km, 27 min to Codorníu. Taxi available from the station.

The Codorníu estate among the vineyards of Sant Sadurní
The Codorníu estate among the vines, Montserrat in the distance.Photo: Pere López Brosa · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
02
Must-see€23Monument

Codorníu and the Puig i Cadafalch cellars

Address
Avinguda de Jaume de Codorníu, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia
Practical
Codorníu Discovery Tour, daily by booking (codorniu.com, +34 938 913 342). €23, reduced €18.40, ages 8–17 €17.25. Tasting for over-18s only
Time on site
1 hr 30

The Codorníu family has grown vines since the 16th century and claims to be the oldest family business in Spain. Its cellar buildings, designed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch, architect of the Casa Amatller, were declared a historic and artistic monument in 1976.

The tour crosses the Modernista halls, descends into the underground cellars and shows the old machinery. It ends with a little train through the galleries, then a tasting of two cavas.

What to look for

  • Puig i Cadafalch’s brick arches and ceramics, rare in industrial architecture.
  • The kilometres of galleries on several levels, where the bottles age lying down.

The guide’s view

Without a car, Codorníu is easier to visit than Freixenet if you enjoy walking; otherwise, take a taxi from the station. Do not combine both houses in one morning if you also want Vilafranca.

OpenStreetMapGoogle Maps41.43360, 1.79630

Back to Sant Sadurní station, then the R4 towards Sant Vicenç de Calders: ≈ 10–15 min to Vilafranca (check the timetable).

03
UnusualFreeOutdoors

Rambla de Nostra Senyora

Address
From the station towards the centre
Practical
Public promenade
Time on site
10 min

Leaving Vilafranca station, the Rambla leads to the old centre. The town is the capital of the Alt Penedès and has lived off wine since the Middle Ages: markets, fairs, merchants, then cooperatives and cellars.

The Modernista and eclectic façades of the Rambla and neighbouring streets recall the fortunes of the 19th century. Phylloxera then destroyed the vineyards, in the 1880s.

What to look for

  • The façades of the merchants’ houses, with their balconies and ceramics.

The guide’s view

The bars on the Rambla are the right place for a vermut before lunch.

OpenStreetMapGoogle Maps41.34540, 1.70000

Straight on towards the old town: ≈ 400 m, 7 min to the basilica.

Bell tower of the basilica of Santa Maria lit up at night
The bell tower of Santa Maria, at night.Photo: User:Xaviaranda · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
04
Must-seeFreeGothic

Basílica de Santa Maria

Address
Plaça de Jaume I
Practical
Parish church. Tours of the bell tower and roofs on some Saturdays at 11:00, with the tourist office; check dates
Time on site
20 min

Vilafranca’s great Gothic church, raised to the rank of basilica, closes off Plaça de Jaume I. Its bell tower dominates the town and the plain of vines.

The church was set on fire in 1936, at the start of the Civil War, then restored. Excavations and recent works have revealed the history of its construction, which the bell-tower tours explain.

What to look for

  • The bell tower, a Penedès landmark visible for miles.
  • The gargoyles on the roofs, which the guided tour explains.

The guide’s view

Bell-tower and roof tours are booked through the tourist office (turismevilafranca.com); slots are scarce in winter.

OpenStreetMapGoogle Maps41.34710, 1.69740

On the same square: 50 m to the Vinseum.

Façade of the Vinseum, a former royal palace
The Vinseum, in the former palace of the kings of Aragon.Photo: VINSEUM · CC BY 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
05
Must-seeClosed MondayFree 1st Sun.

Vinseum, museum of wine cultures

Address
Plaça de Jaume I, 1
Practical
Tue–Sat 10:00–19:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–14:00. Closed Monday. Free on the first Sunday of the month. Check admission price
Time on site
1 hr 15

The museum occupies the former palace of the Kings of Aragon, in the heart of the town. It tells the story of wine in Catalonia from Antiquity to the present: vineyard tools, presses, trade, festivals. It also shows the invention of cava in the Penedès, in the late 19th century.

Until 14 February 2027, the chapel of Sant Pelegrí hosts the free exhibition “Vilafranca 1926: the embryo of modernity?”.

What to look for

  • The great wooden screw presses.
  • The collection of wine-related art, from ceramics to painting.

The guide’s view

A guided tour is included in admission on the first and third Saturdays of the month at 12:00. The Vinseum also runs paid tastings: see the programme.

OpenStreetMapGoogle Maps41.34670, 1.69680

Via Carrer de Sant Joan: ≈ 150 m, 3 min to Cal Figarot.

06
UnusualOutdoorsRehearsals

Cal Figarot, the castellers’ house

Address
Carrer del General Prim
Practical
Headquarters of the Castellers de Vilafranca; rehearsals on some weekday evenings, check with the colla
Time on site
10 min

Vilafranca is one of the capitals of the castells, the Catalan human towers inscribed on UNESCO’s intangible heritage list in 2010. The green-shirted Castellers de Vilafranca are among the strongest colles in Catalonia.

Cal Figarot is their headquarters. The great diades take place on Plaça de la Vila. They are held during the Festa Major, in late August and early September, and on All Saints’ Day, 1 November.

What to look for

  • The photographs and trophies of the tallest towers, visible from the entrance when the building is open.

The guide’s view

Watch a rehearsal in silence, from the edge of the hall. Ask before photographing the children who climb to the top.

OpenStreetMapGoogle Maps41.34580, 1.69660

Via Carrer de la Cort: ≈ 200 m, 3 min to Plaça de la Vila.

Plaça de la Vila in Vilafranca
The Plaça de la Vila, stage for the castells.Photo: Jorge Franganillo · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
07
Must-seeFreeSaturday morning

Plaça de la Vila and the Saturday market

Address
Plaça de la Vila, old centre
Practical
Saturday market: food 8:00–14:00, other stalls 9:00–14:00, over 200 stalls across nine streets and squares
Time on site
30 min, 1 hr on Saturdays

The town-hall square is the stage for the castells and the centre of the big Saturday market, one of the most important in Catalonia. It fills the whole centre, from Plaça de Jaume I to Rambla de Sant Francesc.

Here you buy Penedès produce: charcuterie, cheeses, fruit, wines from small cellars, and in December the capons of the Fira del Gall.

What to look for

  • The town hall and its arcades, in front of which the castells are raised.
  • The stalls of wine and cava producers, at cellar-door prices.

The guide’s view

Come before 11:00: by midday, the crowds make it hard to move and the best produce has gone.

OpenStreetMapGoogle Maps41.34640, 1.69820

End of the walking loop. Back to the station: ≈ 500 m, 9 min. For Família Torres, car or taxi: ≈ 3 km, 10 min.

08
Unusual€34–37WeekendCar

Família Torres, Pacs del Penedès

Address
Finca el Maset, Pacs del Penedès
Practical
Weekend visits by booking (torres.es, reserves@torres.es, +34 938 177 330): 4 wines and 4 tapas €37, or 4 wines and 4 cheeses €34
Time on site
≈ 2 hr

Torres is the other great name of the Penedès, this time for still wines. The family house, founded in Vilafranca in the 19th century, has become one of the best-known Spanish wine groups abroad.

The visitor centre, among the vineyards north of Vilafranca, shows the cellar and the vineyard, then offers food and wine pairings.

What to look for

  • The vineyard around the cellar, and Montserrat on the horizon in clear weather.

The guide’s view

Without a car, book a taxi from Vilafranca. If you drive, choose a driver who does not taste: checks are frequent on the vineyard roads.

OpenStreetMapGoogle Maps41.36150, 1.66990

Take the route with you

Before you go