Architecture and Modernisme · Walk · checked on 17/10/2026
L’Eixample · Barcelona

The Eixample on foot

The district Ildefons Cerdà laid out in 1859 as a grid of 113-metre blocks with bevelled corners. People come for Gaudí; they stay for the hidden courtyards, the rear façades and the shops left as they were. This route alternates the two, from the Gran Via to the Sant Pau hospital.

  • 14stops6 must-sees · 8 unusual
  • 5.8 kmon foot
  • 2half-days recommended
  • 8places to eat
Status as of 05/11/2026
Museu Tàpies closed for renovation.

Closed since 13 October 2026, with no reopening date announced. The façade of the former Montaner i Simon publishing house remains visible from Carrer d’Aragó.

Sagrada Família: the Tower of Jesus cannot be visited.

The central tower is complete. But every “tower” ticket sold in 2026 gives access to the Nativity tower or the Passion tower. Winter hours: 9:00–18:00 Monday to Saturday, 10:30–18:00 on Sunday.

Casa Batlló: last night visit on 15 November.

After that, the day visits (9:00–19:45) and the early-morning visit remain.

La Pedrera closed on 25 December and from 11 to 17 January 2027.

Winter hours since 2 November: 9:00–18:30 every day. The roof closes when it rains.

Sant Pau: Els Llums de Sant Pau from 19 November 2026 to 10 January 2027.

Evening light installation, separate ticket. Day visit: 9:30–17:00, last entry 16:30.

Museu Tàpies
Closed
La Pedrera, every day
9:00–18:30
Sant Pau, every day
9:30–17:00

Sources : Museu Tàpies, closure notice (museutapies.org) · Guia Barcelona, Museu Tàpies listing · Guide page “sagrada-familia”, status checked on 4 and 5 November 2026 · Guide page “casa-batllo”, status checked on 4 and 5 November 2026 · Guide page “la-pedrera”, status checked on 4 and 5 November 2026 · Guide page “sant-pau”, status checked on 4 and 5 November 2026

The route

A schematic plan of the grid: each octagon is a block. Tap a number to open its entry. On a phone, swipe the plan sideways.

Av. Diagonal Villarroel Muntaner Rbla. Catalunya Pg. de Gràcia Pau Claris Llúria Bruc Pg. St Joan Marina Gran Via Diputació Consell de Cent Aragó València Mallorca Provença Rosselló Còrsega GRÀCIA ESQUERRA DRETA ↓ la mer Av. Gaudí 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Day A · Stops 1 to 9

Gran Via → Diagonal through the Quadrat d’Or. 2.7 km on foot. Two paid interiors at most: one house on the Mansana de la Discòrdia in the morning, La Pedrera after 16:00. Lunch between Bolós and La Pedrera.

Day B · Stops 10 to 14

Diagonal → Sagrada Família → Sant Pau. 3.1 km on foot. Sagrada Família in the morning for the light on the Nativity, Sant Pau in the afternoon (reduced price after 14:00). Mercat de la Concepció before 15:00 on Saturday; closed on Sunday.

Look down

On the Passeig de Gràcia, the grey-green hexagonal paving slabs carry marine motifs: starfish, ammonite, seaweed. They reproduce a tile Gaudí designed for Casa Batlló and finally laid at Casa Milà. It was extended to the whole avenue when it was redeveloped in the late 1990s.

Why the corners are cut

Cerdà bevelled every block corner (the xamfrà) for visibility, ventilation and the turning of future steam vehicles. Each crossroads becomes a small octagonal square: the shape that structures this page.

Which day to go

PlaceMonTue–FriSatSun
Sagrada Família9:00–18:009:00–18:009:00–18:0010:30–18:00
Casa BatllóOpenOpenOpenOpen
La Pedrera9:00–18:309:00–18:309:00–18:309:00–18:30
Sant Pau9:30–17:009:30–17:009:30–17:009:30–17:00
Mercat de la Concepció8:00–15:008:00–20:008:00–15:00Closed
Museu TàpiesClosedClosedClosedClosed

Day A works on any day. Avoid Sunday for Day B: the Concepció is closed and the Sagrada Família opens only at 10:30. That shortens the good morning light on the Nativity.

Winter hours (November–March). Casa Batlló: day visits 9:00–19:45 every day.

Sources : Guide page “sagrada-familia”, status checked on 4 and 5 November 2026 · Guide page “casa-batllo”, status checked on 4 and 5 November 2026 · Guide page “la-pedrera”, status checked on 4 and 5 November 2026 · Guide page “sant-pau”, status checked on 4 and 5 November 2026 · Guide page “cuisine-catalane”, status checked on 4 and 5 November 2026 · Museu Tàpies, closure notice (museutapies.org)

The 14 stops

Entries checked on 17 October 2026. “To be checked” flags information the guide could not confirm from a reliable source. Tick “Seen” as you walk: your progress stays on your device.

1
UnusualDay A

Universitat de Barcelona

Edifici Històric

Status
Hours not confirmed
Hours
Weekdays during university hours; weekends and garden: restricted access
Price
Free
Metro
Universitat (L1, L2)

Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, 585

Elies Rogent · work begun in 1863

Time on site: 30 min

The logical starting point: this neo-Romanesque building is one of the first large public buildings in the Eixample. Cerdà’s plan was then only a grid of empty plots.

Behind the façade lie two arcaded courtyards, one for sciences and one for letters. On the Carrer de la Diputació side, the Ferran Soldevila garden offers almost a hectare of Romantic planting that most passers-by never notice.

What to look for

  • The two symmetrical arcaded courtyards, seen from the vestibule
  • The grand ceremonial staircase
  • The garden, reached by the Diputació gate (near no. 228)

Stop 2 in 750 m · 13 min on foot

2
UnusualDay A

Casa Calvet

The Gaudí nobody looks at

Status
Exterior only
Hours
Private building, façade only; the ground floor houses a restaurant (name to be checked on site)
Price
Free (exterior)
Metro
Urquinaona (L1, L4)

Carrer de Casp, 48

Antoni Gaudí · 1898–1900

Time on site: 10 min

The most restrained of Gaudí’s buildings, and the only one to win the city’s annual prize for the best building (1900). Montjuïc stone façade, crowned by a double-curved Baroque gable.

The client, Pere Calvet, was a textile manufacturer and a keen mycologist: look for the carved mushrooms beneath the central bay window. The three busts at the top represent Saint Peter Martyr and the patron saints of Vilassar, the family’s village.

What to look for

  • The mushrooms in relief beneath the bay window
  • The wrought-iron knocker and handle on the door
  • The initials C above the entrance

Stop 3 in 400 m · 7 min on foot

3
UnusualDay A

Torre de les Aigües

A block as Cerdà imagined it

Status
Open
Hours
Until 31 Oct: 10:00–21:00 · from 1 Nov: 10:00–19:00
Price
Free
Metro
Girona (L4)

Carrer de Roger de Llúria, 56 (passage)

Josep Oriol Mestres and Antoni Darder · 1870

Time on site: 15 min

A 38.5 m corridor beneath a building opens onto an inner garden, dominated by a water tower of 1870. It supplied drinking water to the first houses of the Eixample.

Cerdà wanted open, planted blocks; speculation filled almost all of them. This one, bought back by the city in 1987, shows what the plan was meant to be. The small summer pool, the “Eixample beach”, closed in 2019 after noise complaints.

What to look for

  • The access passage, restored with its original ceramic paving
  • The tower seen from the centre of the block
  • The rear façades of the buildings, the other face of the Eixample

Stop 4 in 250 m · 4 min on foot

4
UnusualDay A

Passatge Permanyer

An English mews in the grid

Status
Open access
Hours
Public thoroughfare
Price
Free
Metro
Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4)

Between Pau Claris and Roger de Llúria (Consell de Cent–Aragó block)

Opened in the 1860s

Time on site: 10 min

A pedestrian passage through the block, lined with small Neoclassical houses with front gardens and railings, on the model of London mews. Stepping in feels like entering another city, fifty metres from the traffic of Pau Claris.

People live here: keep quiet and discreet, and do not stop in front of the gates.

What to look for

  • The small enclosed gardens in front of each house
  • The view from the Pau Claris entrance

Stop 5 in 200 m · 3 min on foot

5
Must-seeDay A

Mansana de la Discòrdia

Batlló, Amatller, Lleó Morera

Status
Open · book ahead
Hours
Batlló: every day, daytime and evening · Amatller: guided tours at set times
Price
Batlló: dynamic pricing, dearer at the last minute; roof access depends on the ticket tier · Amatller: ≈ €17–20 (third-party source)
Metro
Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4)

Passeig de Gràcia, 35 to 43

Domènech i Montaner (35, 1902–06) · Puig i Cadafalch (41, 1898–1900) · Gaudí (43, 1904–06)

Time on site: 1 hr 30 with one visit

The pun is Catalan: mançana means both a city block and an apple. Three leaders of Modernisme answer one another here along a single street front, each in his own vocabulary. A corner tower and sculpture for Domènech, a stepped Flemish gable for Puig i Cadafalch. A scaled dragon roof and mask-shaped balconies for Gaudí.

If you visit only one interior here, Casa Amatller is the least obvious and most authentic choice. The main floor keeps the furniture and decoration of the family of chocolate maker Antoni Amatller. The tour is guided, in small groups, with a chocolate tasting. Casa Batlló is spectacular but entirely staged.

What to look for

  • The mask balconies and “bony” columns of Batlló
  • The stepped gable and Eusebi Arnau’s sculptures on Amatller
  • Gaudí’s hexagonal panot underfoot (see box)

In this guide : Casa Batlló, the house of light →

Stop 6 in 150 m · 3 min on foot

6
Must-seeDay A

Museu Tàpies

The former Montaner i Simon publishing house

Status
Temporarily closed
Hours
Closed for works since autumn 2026, for about three months (reception and shop)
Price
€15 on reopening
Metro
Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4)

Carrer d’Aragó, 255

Lluís Domènech i Montaner · 1880s

Time on site: 5 min (façade)

One of the city’s first Modernista buildings, in exposed brick and iron, designed for a publishing house. Antoni Tàpies set up his foundation here in 1984.

On the roof, the wire cloud “Núvol i cadira” (1990) is clearly visible from the pavement opposite.

What to look for

  • The wire sculpture on the roof, from the opposite pavement
  • The brick façade with its neo-Mudéjar patterns

Stop 7 in 200 m · 3 min on foot

7
UnusualDay A

Farmàcia Bolós

A working Art Nouveau pharmacy

Status
Open
Hours
Mon–Sat 9:00–21:00
Price
Free
Metro
Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) · FGC Provença

Rambla de Catalunya, 77 (corner of València)

Decoration by Antoni de Falguera · 1902

Time on site: 10 min

A wooden door with leaded glass showing an orange tree, and a wrought-iron sign bearing a poppy, emblem of Modernista pharmacies. The Bolós family has run it since 1926.

Inside are the original mahogany counter, display cases and ceiling paintings. It is a working pharmacy: go in as a customer, without flash or crowding.

What to look for

  • The orange tree in the door’s stained glass
  • The “Bolós” lantern beneath the bay window, still working
  • Close by: Casa Domènech i Estapà, València 241 (1909)

Stop 8 in 400 m · 7 min on foot

8
Must-seeDay A

Casa Milà · La Pedrera

Gaudí’s last civil building

Status
Open · quieter 9:00–10:00 and after 16:00
Hours
Until 1 Nov: every day 9:00–20:30, night visit 20:40–22:20 · winter hours thereafter
Price
Essencial: from €25 online, €29 at the ticket office · 50% off for Catalan residents with proof
Metro
Diagonal (L3, L5)

Passeig de Gràcia, 92

Antoni Gaudí · 1906–1912 · UNESCO 1984

Time on site: 1 hr 30

A stone façade that undulates like a cliff, hence the nickname “the quarry”. It carries no load: the structure rests on pillars. The floor plans are thus freed from load-bearing walls, an idea twenty years ahead of its time.

The visit is worth it above all for the roof terrace and its warrior chimneys, and for the attic with its 270 brick catenary arches.

What to look for

  • The attic and its catenary arches
  • The roof chimneys, with the Sagrada Família in the distance
  • The wrought-iron balconies, each one different

In this guide : La Pedrera, the house without load-bearing walls →

Stop 9 in 350 m · 6 min on foot

9
UnusualDay A

Jardins del Palau Robert

A green pause at the top of the Passeig

Status
Open
Hours
Mon–Sat 9:00–20:00 · Sun and public holidays 9:00–14:30
Price
Free
Metro
Diagonal (L3, L5)

Passeig de Gràcia, 107

Palace of the Marquis Robert · gardens by Ramon Oliva

Time on site: 20 min

This is the garden of an early 20th-century bourgeois mansion, now open to the public. Magnolias, limes, bitter oranges, cypresses and palms line two gravel paths. Exactly what the Eixample hid behind its railings.

The palace now houses the Generalitat’s information centre, with free exhibitions.

What to look for

  • The magnolia and the bitter orange trees
  • The free exhibitions on the ground floor

Stop 10 in 100 m · 2 min on foot · end of Day A; Day B starts here

10
UnusualDay B

Casa Comalat

Two façades, two temperaments

Status
Exterior only
Hours
Private building, façades only · best light from 11:00 to early afternoon
Price
Free (exterior)
Metro
Diagonal (L3, L5)

Av. Diagonal, 442 · rear façade: Carrer de Còrsega, 316

Salvador Valeri i Pupurull · 1906–1911

Time on site: 10 min

On the Diagonal side, a symmetrical, bourgeois stone façade. Walk round to Còrsega. The rear façade is an undulating gallery of shuttered wooden loggias and green ceramic, clearly inspired by Gaudí.

Valeri took up the idea of Casa Calvet: a restrained façade for the grand street, fantasy for the back. 300 m along the Diagonal (no. 373), Puig i Cadafalch’s Palau del Baró de Quadras plays the same game.

What to look for

  • The wooden shutters of the Còrsega façade
  • The green “harlequin’s hat” crowning the Diagonal façade

Stop 11 in 450 m · 8 min on foot

11
Must-seeDay B

Casa de les Punxes

Casa Terrades

Status
Exterior only
Hours
Exterior; the interior cannot be visited on a regular basis (to be checked)
Price
Free (exterior)
Metro
Diagonal (L3, L5) · Verdaguer (L4, L5)

Av. Diagonal, 416–420

Josep Puig i Cadafalch · 1905

Time on site: 15 min

A red-brick neo-Gothic castle on a triangular block, topped by six conical spires. Bartomeu Terrades commissioned it for his three sisters; the building indeed reads as three houses joined together.

On the Rosselló side, the ceramic panel of Saint George bears a Catalanist inscription. It asks the patron saint of Catalonia to give her back her freedom. The interior tours opened in 2016 did not last: count on the exterior.

What to look for

  • The Saint George panel on the Rosselló façade
  • The outline of the spires from the corner of Bruc and Diagonal

Stop 12 in 500 m · 9 min on foot

12
UnusualDay B

Mercat de la Concepció

The Eixample’s flower market

Status
Open · closed on Sunday
Hours
Mon and Sat 8:00–15:00 · Tue–Fri 8:00–20:00 · florists 24 hours a day (except August)
Price
Free
Metro
Girona (L4)

Carrer d’Aragó, 311–317

Antoni Rovira i Trias · late 1880s

Time on site: 20 min

An iron market hall of the same family as the Born and Sant Antoni, without the Boqueria’s crowds. The florists at the Aragó entrance are open 24 hours a day, except in August: you can buy a bouquet at midnight.

The food market serves the neighbourhood; a few counters let you eat on the spot.

What to look for

  • The florists under the awning, on the Aragó side
  • The iron roof structure seen from the central aisle

Stop 13 in 1.2 km · 21 min on foot

13
Must-seeDay B

Sagrada Família

Basilica · centenary year

Status
Open · book several weeks ahead
Hours
October: Mon–Fri 9:00–19:00, Sat 9:00–18:00, Sun 10:30–19:00 · Nov–Feb: closes at 18:00
Price
Basilica €26 · with tower €36 · guided €30 / €40 · tickets online only
Metro
Sagrada Família (L2, L5)

Carrer de Mallorca, 401

Antoni Gaudí from 1883 · work in progress

Time on site: 2 hrs

2026 marks the centenary of Gaudí’s death, on 10 June 1926. It is also the year the Tower of Jesus Christ, the basilica’s tallest (172.5 m), was completed. The Glory façade, the future main entrance, is under construction.

A note on light: the blue-green windows on the Nativity side (east) are at their best in the morning. The reds and oranges on the Passion side (west) glow in late afternoon. Choose your time slot accordingly.

What to look for

  • The forest of branching columns in the nave
  • The Nativity façade, the only one completed in Gaudí’s lifetime
  • The models room and Gaudí’s school, often overlooked

In this guide : Sagrada Família, against the light →

Stop 14 in 900 m · 15 min on foot

14
Must-seeDay B

Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau

Finishing along Avinguda Gaudí

Status
Open
Hours
Apr–Oct: 9:30–18:30 · shorter winter hours (to be checked)
Price
€18 (€17 after 14:00) · guided €21 · reduced €11.90 (Barcelona residents, 65 and over) · free under 12
Metro
Sant Pau | Dos de Maig (L5)

Carrer de Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167

Lluís Domènech i Montaner · 1905–1930 · UNESCO 1997

Time on site: 1 hr 30

Walk up the pedestrianised Avinguda Gaudí, which links the two masterpieces in a straight line. At the end stands the former Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau: a garden city of ceramic-clad pavilions. Linked by underground galleries, they were designed to heal through light and air.

It is the largest Art Nouveau ensemble in Europe and, for many visitors, the real surprise of the stay. It lies just beyond the administrative boundary of the Eixample, in the Horta-Guinardó district.

What to look for

  • The Administration pavilion and its hall
  • The underground galleries between pavilions
  • The view down Avinguda Gaudí towards the Sagrada Família, as you turn round

In this guide : Sant Pau, the garden hospital →

Take the route with you

Where to eat

Nine addresses along the route, from pastry shop to three stars, checked in November 2026. Restaurant hours change often: phone before crossing the city.

RestaurantStyleBudgetNearBooking
DisfrutarFine dining€€€€Stop 8Booking essential, often months ahead.
Mont BarFine dining at the counter€€€€Stop 1Booking strongly recommended.
GrescaBistronomy€€Stop 7Booking recommended in the evening.
Bar MutWine and tapas bar€€€Stop 10Bookings accepted
Tapas 24Tapas€€Stop 5No bookings
Cerveseria CatalanaTapas€€Stop 7Arrive early or wait at the counter.
Paco MeralgoTapas€€Stop 8Booking useful in the evening.
Pastisseria MauriPastry shop, tearoom€Stop 8No booking
R1 Fine dining

Disfrutar

What to order
The tasting menu only; consider the wine or alcohol-free pairing.
Hours
Tue–Fri, lunch and dinner · closed Sat–Mon
Booking
Booking essential, often months ahead.

€€€€

Carrer de Villarroel, 163

Esquerra, 15 min west of stop 8

Three Michelin stars, voted best restaurant in the world in the World’s 50 Best 2024 ranking. Three former elBulli chefs (Casañas, Castro, Xatruch) serve a long, playful and technically virtuoso tasting menu.

One for a special occasion. Three-star menus in Barcelona cost around €300 or more per person, excluding drinks.

R2 Fine dining at the counter

Mont Bar

What to order
The à la carte menu at the counter is the most flexible way to taste two-star cooking.
Hours
Mon–Sat, lunch and dinner · closed Sun
Booking
Booking strongly recommended.

€€€€

Carrer de la Diputació, 220

Near stop 1 · Universitat de Barcelona

Two Michelin stars since the 2026 guide, with the look of a bar. At the long marble counter, order the tasting menu or a few dishes à la carte. The cooking is by Fran Agudo.

The best ratio of emotion to price at the very top end, two streets from stop 1.

R3 Bistronomy

Gresca

What to order
Whatever is on the blackboard; offal if you like it. Half portions available if you are alone.
Hours
Lunch and dinner (published hours conflict: to be confirmed)
Booking
Booking recommended in the evening.

€€

Carrer de Provença, 230

Near stop 7 · Farmàcia Bolós

Rafa Peña, winner of Catalonia’s 2023 national gastronomy prize, formerly at elBulli and Berasategui. Small seasonal plates to share, with game, offal and natural wines well represented.

A cook’s address, for eating very well without the ceremony of a starred restaurant.

R4 Wine and tapas bar

Bar Mut

What to order
The seasonal croquetas, the meat of the day, the dishes on the blackboard.
Hours
Lunch and dinner
Booking
Bookings accepted; otherwise come early. Small terrace.

€€€

Carrer de Pau Claris, 192

Near stop 10 · Casa Comalat

A classic, cramped bar: bottles from floor to ceiling, high stools, marble, the day’s suggestions on the blackboard. A neighbourhood institution, expensive for a bar but rarely disappointing.

Ideal for dinner after La Pedrera and the Diagonal.

R5 Tapas

Tapas 24

What to order
The truffle bikini (≈ €11), the bomba, the huevos estrellados.
Hours
Every day, from about noon to midnight
Booking
No bookings: arrive before 13:30 or after 15:30.

€€

Carrer de la Diputació, 269

Near stop 5 · Mansana de la Discòrdia

Opened in 2006 by Carles Abellan and now run by its staff. Spanish bar classics, made with care: ensaladilla, bombas, huevos estrellados, and the truffle bikini (Iberian ham, mozzarella, truffle).

The safest quick lunch near the Passeig. Allow €30–40.

R6 Tapas

Cerveseria Catalana

What to order
The montaditos from the counter, the prawns, the huevos cabreados.
Hours
Every day, about 8:00–1:30
Booking
Arrive early or wait at the counter.

€€

Carrer de Mallorca, 236

Near stop 7 · Farmàcia Bolós

The Eixample’s benchmark for tapas: montaditos, seafood, fast and professional service. Always full, with tourists and regulars side by side.

Not a discovery, but a safe bet between Bolós and La Pedrera.

R7 Tapas

Paco Meralgo

What to order
The fish of the day, the montaditos, the rice if you come at lunchtime.
Hours
Every day, 13:00–midnight
Booking
Booking useful in the evening.

€€

Carrer de Muntaner, 171

10 min west of stop 8

A tapas bar that calls itself a “high tavern”: montaditos, meat, fish from the auction and rice at lunchtime. More locals than tourists, recommended by the Michelin Guide (€ category).

The Esquerra’s good-value address, ten minutes west of La Pedrera.

R9 Pastry shop, tearoom

Pastisseria Mauri

What to order
An ensaïmada or a croissant for breakfast; panellets in autumn.
Hours
Every day (hours to be checked)
Booking
No booking; terrace on the Rambla.

€

Rambla de Catalunya, 102 (corner of Provença)

Near stop 8 · Casa Milà · La Pedrera

A pastry shop founded in 1929 in a charcuterie of 1904, whose interior it has kept, with a ceiling painting of the goddess of Abundance. Pastries, ensaïmadas, cakes, and a set menu at lunchtime.

The breakfast or afternoon stop of the day, opposite La Bodegueta.

Practical

Tickets

Sagrada Família: online only, several weeks ahead in 2026. Casa Batlló: dynamic prices, buy early. La Pedrera and Sant Pau are easier to book. Do not combine more than two interiors per half-day.

Resident discounts

Sagrada Família: 50% off in 2026 for residents of the city of Barcelona (padró), by email. La Pedrera: 50% off for Catalan residents with proof of a Catalan address. Sant Pau: reduced price for Barcelona residents.

Getting around

The route is entirely flat. To reach the start: metro Universitat (L1, L2). To return from Sant Pau: metro Sant Pau | Dos de Maig (L5). The Diagonal and line L5 link the two days.

Closures to know about

Museu Tàpies closed for works until winter 2026–2027. Mercat de la Concepció closed on Sunday. Casa Comalat, Casa Calvet and Casa de les Punxes: exteriors only.

Sources